Frilled shirts, torn fishnets, corsets, waist-cinchers, fishtail skirts, platform shoes, combat boots, skinny jeans, cloaks, feather fascinators, and giant spider hairpins. This is just a list of some of the items reoccurring in my closet–and I can never have too many of them. When I came into the age where every girl starts examining her wardrobe and what reflection it is on her, a lot of people would ask me where I would have ever thought to pair such things. Trying to seem original, I would shrug, curl my painted lips into a smile, and reply that I had thought of it all myself. At this point in my life, when I’ve explored quite a few options and developed more of a signature style, I’m proud of my influences and exactly where they’ve brought me.
Today, I’d like to share with you some of my personal icons and exactly how they’ve influenced my style.
It all started with Stevie Nicks. I was in seventh grade when Trouble in Shangri-La came out, and I picked it up at the record store because I thought the cover art was stunning. No, I’d never heard of her before–neither of my parents were Fleetwood Mac fans, and I didn’t know she had any previous work out. I loved the album, but what struck me more were the inserts, the pictures of Stevie in a peach-coloured chiffon dress, wearing camel leather boots and her hair flying everywhere. As I started to explore her music and career, I found such amazing photos of her that I knew she was going to be a big influence for me. To this day, there’s nothing I love more than a billowing chiffon dress, or lace skirt miles long, or layers and layers of flowing fabrics.
I discovered Louise Brooks when an internet friend of mine bobbed her hair. She posed for her picture in black clothing, against a dark wall, with a long string of pearls in her hand, and someone remarked that she strongly resembled the silent movie starlet. Off I hopped to google, and what I found astonished me: I wanted to be Louise Brooks. Her look was signature, yet versatile. Hair was always fashionably bobbed, but she could portray the exotic Nile Queen, covered in gilded lotuses and beaded headdresses, the showgirl, head to toe in feathers, or the innocent, riding the rails to seek refuge from a life of abuse. The 20′s became a fascination for me–granted, I still don’t feel as if I can pull off a drop-waist well. But I love the era for its fashion, its music, its lively spirit, its glamour.
There are several men on my list of influences, and Mana is one of the biggest. Influences, not men. I think he’s my height. Regardless…I don’t remember how I stumbled upon Malice Mizer, but it was undoubtedly on the internet, and it launched several of my biggest teenage obsessions. I don’t follow the Japanese Rock scene anymore, but when I did, Malice Mizer was my favourite. I still love their music, and their style still influences my own. They disbanded about a decade ago, Mana, their guitarist, now leads Moi dix Mois, due to release a new album in December. Although his looks from one band to the other have shifted a little, his Malice Mizer style featured frothy frocks and layers of lace, tailored jackets and bustle skirts. He was considered the father of the Japanese street fashion craze, EGL (or “elegant gothic lolita”), and it’s sister-trend, EGA (or “elegant gothic aristocrat”). While I was younger, I tried to play up the Lolita aspect, opting for microscopically short skirts, layers and layers of petticoats, and flounced blouses and headbands. I had an endless assortment of platform shoes, skyscraper maryjanes, high-heeled patent-leather boots. But as I grew older, I saw much more appeal in the Aristocrat fashions. Today, I still swoon over the perfectly tailored velvet blouse, bustles, and fishtail skirts.
In middle school, one of my friends was obsessed with No Doubt. I liked their music, but I didn’t really understand their look. I thought it was super neat that Gwen Stefani had pink hair, but aside from that, I wasn’t entirely sure. Considering I never really listened to the radio, I didn’t follow their career, but when they disbanded and Gwen went solo, my attention was piqued. I heard her single “What You Waiting For?” I was completely taken. Her look had evolved into something I familiar with, drawing influences from story books and Japanese street fashion to develop something like a Fairy-Tale American Lolita. I still have a soft-spot for her Harajuku Lovers line, but I’ve come to love her classic glamour and pin-up appeal.
What gothling hasn’t been influenced by Siouxsie Sioux? –I think I evolved backwards. Although I loved Siouxsie & the Banshees for years, I really never considered her a fashion icon until I was older. I was wearing Victorian Mourning and EGA when I was sixteen, but I was twenty before I put together the carefully assembled chaos that was Siouxsie’s goth/punk style. I teased my newly-cut hair and wore Doc Martens. I had explored punk when I was younger, but it was a strange mess of brightly coloured tights and mini-skirts, lace-up boots and ripped vintage jumpers. This was somehow more classic, more polished–but perhaps, anything appears more polished when topped off with red lipstick.
I listened to a lot of glam rock as a child. Considering, I’m surprised I wasn’t more influenced by the style at a younger age. I do think David Bowie shaped my thoughts on “acceptable” and “unacceptable” in men, movies, music, and morals as a young thing, growing up on movies like Labyrinth and listening to albums like the Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust. But I was in my late teens/early twenties by the time I considered dressing in tight pants and platform shoes, crazy blouses and sequined jackets. I’m still looking for the perfect sequined jacket, by the way.
Long have I admired the work of many designers, among them Vivian Westwood and Betsey Johnson. Not only do I love their collections and designs, but I admire them as strong women with wonderful influence. Vivian Westwood’s early work with the punk scene is simply amazing, and her more recent efforts to raise awareness and protect the environment is great. Betsey Johnson’s battle with and overcoming of breast cancer was simply inspirational, and she has always encouraged girls and women to be themselves and express their individuality.
–Since they aren’t really people, but still influential to my personal style, I’d like to address the movie and television characters that have inspired me. Velvet Goldmine‘s Brian Slade, as played by the amazing Jonathan Rhys-Meyers, rekindled my love of glam rock and androgyny (even if I could never really pull that one off). Eve Myle’s character Gwen Cooper on Torchwood wears a stunning assortment of leather jackets and boots, paired with sleek jeans and simple shirts, proving that tough chicks can be feminine and sexy. Her co-star John Barrowman, who plays Captain Jack Harkness (originally from Doctor Who) dresses in fabulous wartime coats–if I was a man, I would so rock the 1940′s shirt-and-suspenders look. More recently on the time-travel scene, Doctor Who‘s Karen Gillan, as new companion Amy Pond, dons a spectacular array of shorts-over-tights, dolman-sleeve sweaters, western and slouch boots, and girlie swing coats. I wonder where she gets it all from, considering she jumped into the TARDIS wearing only a pair of striped pajamas…that thing must have an amazing closet!
Though I could go on forever about my style evolution and influences, there is simply not enough time or space. This list doesn’t even include the artists, paintings, illustrations, and songs that have contributed in some way, shape, or form to my closet.
Who has influenced your style? How has it changed over the years? Discuss!
Love you to the Moon and Back,
Luna Valentine